Ketchikan

Ketchikan is known as Alaska’s first city because it the first major community travellers come to as they make the journey north. It is a town with a rich maritime history and some very quaint architecture. The Tlingit people were drawn to the area by the abundance of salmon in the crystal clear waters. In 1883 a man named Snow opened the area’s first salmon saltary and a fishing town was born. It is known as the salmon capital of the world.

Once copper and gold were discovered Ketchikan flourished with the influx of people and soon after a fishing and timber industry were also established. It was the growth of these industries that helped make this Inside Passage port Alaska’s 7th largest city. Full of history this was our first stopover on the cruise.

About 19% of the residents are of the Tlingit, Haida and/or Tsimshian Natives. 

View on the way into Ketchikan

Some of the locals to greet us on the wharf.

Our day started very early as we had a tour booked and we had to be on the dock by 7.20am! I expect this was because we were only in Ketchikan for such a short time. Our tour was to the Saxman Native Village and Totem Park. We were picked up from the dock in a bus with our guide Lindsay who was an absolute card! Joking all the time which was great. As we drove out to the village Lindsay gave us lots of  information about the area and the Tlingit people who were the indigenous people of the area. A member of the clan introduced us to some Tlingit language which we all repeated after him. Don’t ask me what it was as I couldn’t pronounce or spell it but it was a nice way to include us in the presentation. We then did a short walk through an area of rainforest to the clan house where we would be seeing some traditional dancing and singing. The performers were all from the Tlingit Clan and were a mix of adults and children and the kids were just gorgeous. They were right into it and were very good.

The internal interpretation of the entry to a Clan House

Each person was wearing a blanket which was embroidered with their clan on the back. In this performance there were dancers representing a number of the clans, these being the raven, killer whale, beaver, bear and eagle. They are mostly black and red and then are further embroidered with beads.

The performers showing their dancing blankets

An elder of the clan explained how the Beaver Clan tribal house was designed and it has only one entry and exit point, a round cut out which you have to crawl through to get in. The reason for this is so that when the men were away hunting the women could see who was coming in and if they were invaders hit them over the head before they could fully enter the house. It was also painted on the outside as well. The clan houses are generally made of red cedar and as soon as we walked in you could smell it! It was very nice.  They are made in tiers and the more tiers the wealthier the clan was. This one was a 3 tiered clan house so the clan would have been reasonably wealthy.

After the performance we went outside to the totem park which surrounded the clan house. In the city there are over 80 totems and serve as a reminder of the traditions and values of the tribal culture and a representation of Alaskan native art. There are commemorative poles which are usually the largest, memorial poles which celebrate important tribe members and family lineage poles which celebrate one family’s unique history. Each totem tells a story which is only known to the 2 people making the totem and the story isn’t told until the totem is erected. There is one in the park called the mystery totem as both of the people who knew about this totem died before it could be erected. There others commemorating the loss of 3 young clan members who went out on a fishing trip and never came back. Some great stories to go with others in the park. 

What a clan house would look like from the outside.

After that we visited the workshop of a famous totem pole maker Nathan Johnson and learnt about the tools they used and the original paints as well. 

Back on the bus into town where we then walked to Creek Street the famous Red Light District during the Gold Rush. It was a very interesting walk through but knowing we were pressed for time we only had a quick look. Loved the quaint buildings and the boardwalk going through. 

Cheryl had heard that this was the crab capital but we now know it is the salmon and not the crab capital so instead of having lunch in town we made our way back to the boat for lunch ready to set sail at 1.30 in the afternoon. We went for a wander and as the boat left tried spotting some whales, we saw a few spouts but not much else.

View of part of the town from our balcony on the boat

A couple of drinks in our favourite bar with our favourite waiter Rey, dinner and then bed. Another day done and dusted in beautiful Alaska.